First, whisk the flour, sugar and salt together in a large bowl. Crack in the eggs and whisk until the mixture is completely smooth before any milk goes near it, which is the order that keeps lumps from forming.

Next, pour the milk in gradually while whisking, then whisk in the melted butter. The batter should be thin enough to run off the whisk in a ribbon, about the thickness of heavy cream.

Then cover the bowl and rest it for at least 30 minutes at room temperature, or up to 2 days in the fridge. The flour hydrates and the gluten relaxes, which is what stops the cooked crepes shrinking back and turning chewy.

After that, heat a 10-inch nonstick or seasoned pan over medium heat for a full 2 minutes and wipe it with a little softened butter. A drop of batter should sizzle on contact. Expect the first crepe to come out patchy.

Pour in a scant 1/4 cup, lift the pan off the heat and swirl straight away so the batter runs to the edges in a thin, even sheet. Cook for 40 to 50 seconds, until the edges lift and turn lacy brown and the surface goes matte.

Flip with a thin spatula and give the second side 30 seconds. It will brown in blotches rather than evenly, which is correct, and that side goes on the inside when you fold.

Finally, stack them on a plate as they come, so they steam each other soft. Serve dusted with powdered sugar and a squeeze of lemon, or fold around any filling you like.